Moschino’s Playful Workwear: Women’s Fall/Winter 2025 Collection

For Fall/Winter 2025, Moschino's creative director Adrian Appiolaza draws inspiration from the idea of hard work, but with a sense of play. At the heart of the collection is the craft that defines fashion, a homage to Franco Moschino’s legacy of excellence in sartorial tailoring. Appiolaza’s latest vision fuses timeless tailoring with a timely message—a commentary on the ecological crises we face and must confront. The collection serves as a pertinent reminder that Franco Moschino's concerns from the past still resonate deeply in today's world, making his messages as relevant as ever.

A reference point from Moschino mythology, Franco Moschino's iconic 1992 "mannequin" dress, provides the foundation for this collection. The dress, cut close to the body, represents both a literal and ideological basis for the Fall/Winter 2025 pieces. In many ways, the collection feels like an homage to the industry's craft—dresses appear frozen mid-creation, while tailoring is dissected, with its working parts reimagined as decorative elements. A raw selvedge, specially made for Moschino, becomes a new badge of identity. It's an ironic, non-logo detail that un-finishes the edge of tailoring, allowing it to dissolve into a free drape.

Deconstruction takes center stage, but with a twist—garments are reimagined and reconstructed. Dresses are pieced together from various components of other garments, while sweaters intertwine with one another, creating a visual collage of craftsmanship. This process of recreation extends to Moschino's collaboration with the British textile company Sanderson of London. Together, they rework four of Sanderson's archival floral prints—Grandi Flora, Stapleton Park, Eton Poppy, and Everything Roses. These classic prints are given a Moschino twist, with flowers playfully smiling and lightbulbs popping within the designs.

Work leads to workwear, where distressed denims and leathers are reinterpreted through Moschino's signature language of exaggeration. The collection distorts the familiar origins of these materials, playing with scale and form to create something entirely new. Iconic motifs, such as the feminine bow, are magnified or removed altogether, their silhouettes outlined against bare skin. In these moments of absence, the details become even more present, a testament to Moschino’s ability to make the unseen tangible.

Craft is luxury, and at Moschino, luxury is relative. This season, that mantra is expressed through a wealth of ideas and the value of thought. Evening gowns made from paper or trash bags subvert traditional notions of elegance, while a down jacket swells around the body with the volume of a fur coat. Accessories, always playful at Moschino, continue to toy with the eye through surreal designs. At a glance, a handbag may look like anything but a handbag—a testament to the brand’s legacy of whimsical, witty fashion.

As always, Moschino values its own vocabulary and icons—the ‘Smiley’, the nameplate belt, and flamenco ruffles are celebrated and reimagined in acts of quiet, personal joy. Yet the collection goes beyond fashion, embracing inclusivity. The clothes dress all genders, blending references from various walks of dress into a fluid whole. It’s a reflection of our times—non-binary, boundless, and embracing all forms of identity.

Moschino’s final look for Fall/Winter 2025 delivers a direct political statement. In a nod to Franco Moschino’s activism, the closing look revives his iconic message: "SOS Save Our Sphere." It’s a powerful reminder of the house’s enduring commitment to fashion with purpose, a plea for the world to take notice and take action.